From the deep blues of sapphires to the vivid greens of emeralds, gemstones are admired for their beauty, symbolism, and cultural meaning. Yet behind the sparkle lies a complex story…
Approximately 80% of the world’s coloured gemstones are mined by artisanal and small-scale miners. [1] Unlike industrial-scale operations, these mines often have lower environmental impact and, when managed responsibly, can benefit the local communities that depend on them. [2] But without safeguards, the sector is also vulnerable to abuse.
Image: Haysin Hayder
The Dark Side of Gemstone Mining
- Child labour and exploitation, with children as young as five performing hazardous work. [3]
- Environmental degradation, from water contamination, deforestation and landslides, to stagnant water in old pits that create health hazards (including creating breeding grounds for malaria). [4]
- Economic exploitation, trapping miners in cycles of poverty when supply chains and endless streams of middle-men bypass fair trade principles. [4]
When History Matters: Myanmar and Cambodia
Myanmar, a country rich in gemstones: The country’s military continues to carry out ethnic cleansing of the Rohingya. With most large mines state-owned, gemstone revenues directly fund this violence. Conditions in most of Myanmar’s mines remain highly exploitative, making provenance and scrutiny essential. [5]
Pailin in Cambodia and Thailand: Once world-famous for blue sapphires, this region became synonymous with tragedy. During the Khmer Rouge regime, which perpetrated the genocide of 1.5 million people, sapphire mines were completely drained to fund military offensives. These stones became known as the first “blood gemstones.” [5]
The legacy of exploitation in Myanmar and Pailin is a stark reminder that coloured gemstones — like diamonds — are not immune from abuse. A ruby from Myanmar or a sapphire from Pailin is not automatically unethical, but sourcing it responsibly requires careful attention to the specific mine’s ownership, labour practices and environmental impacts.
Ethical Sourcing Is More Than a Label
Ethical sourcing is not a marketing claim — it’s a genuine commitment to transparency, fairness, and environmental stewardship.
The miners of Moyo Gems
Traceability: The First Step
Traceability — knowing exactly which mine a stone comes from and the journey it takes from earth to wearer — is foundational to ethical sourcing. Today, a tiny fraction of total global production can be traced from mine to market. Without provenance (traceability), any claim of “ethical sourcing” is an empty statement.
But this alone isn’t enough. Each mine, region, and community tells a different story. True ethical sourcing means examining the specific conditions of each mining region: Are miners treated fairly? Is the environment protected? Do communities benefit?
What Makes a Gemstone Ethical?
Ethical sourcing prioritizes people and the planet. Key factors include:
- Fair wages and safe working conditions - for both miners and gemstone cutters.
- Environmental responsibility - land reclamation, reduced water and chemical use, and ecosystem restoration.
- Community support - ensuring local populations benefit directly and indigenous rights are respected
-
Supply chain transparency - supply chains that can be verified, step by step.
Questions to Ask Before You Buy
- Where was this gemstone mined?
- Where was it cut and polished?
- Can the supply chain be traced mine-to-market?
- Are workers treated fairly and paid appropriately?
- Is the mine environmentally responsible?
- Are there third-party audits or certifications, such as SCS, RJC, or Fair Trade Gems?
Real transparency starts with proof, not promises. If the jeweller can’t answer at least 4/6 of these questions a claim of “ethical’ rings hollow.
We’re so used to endless choice and immediate accessibility in today’s fast-paced consumer culture. Ethical gemstone sourcing asks us to slow down — to value quality over quantity, and provenance over perfection. It means accepting that truly responsible options may be fewer, that certain stones might be unavailable or take longer to find but that’s part of their beauty.
Ethical gemstone sourcing is not about ticking boxes — it’s about building a system that respects people, communities, and the planet.
"If you can’t trace it, you can’t trust it."
References:
[1] https://everledger.io/artisanal-gemstone-mining-blockchain-reveals-the-force-of-storytelling/
[2] https://www.igfmining.org/artisanal-and-small-scale-mining/?utm_
[3] https://www.ilo.org/publications/burden-gold-child-labour-small-scale-mines-and-quarries?utm
[4] https://biron-gems.com/biggest-environmental-impacts-of-gemstone-mining/?utm